|Overall Length:||37 inches|
|Blade Length:||28.5 inches|
|Point of Balance:||4.75 inches from cross|
|Center of Percussion:||14 inches from cross|
|Pommel type:||I1 variant|
|Cross type:||Modified Type 3|
|Handle Length:||8.5 inches|
Performance Review: Badger Blades advertises their wares as being capable of attacking trees, rocks, cars, old appliances and various other non-offending but robust objects. After having worked on two of these "bastard swords" I suspect that the swords can live up to their billing. In short, these swords appear to be heavily overbuilt and designed for use bashing things in the back yard or hacking at your friend's Badger Blade... or lead pipe... or crowbar... The particular swords that I worked on are quite robust with a blade at around 3/8 of an inch thick with distinct secondary bevels on both sides of the blade. I suspect that this helps with their durability although it does reduce their aesthetic. In point of fact, the swords I worked on weren't particularly heavy weighing in at around 2.5 lbs, but they were balanced such (with a balance point almost 5 inches from the cross) that they seemed much heavier. I would not consider these to be finesse or even fencing weapons. In terms of construction I suspect that the cross is slotted with the tang then thrust through the slot and welded or threaded onto the pommel. I would guess that they are welded they show no signes of threading or peening. The pommel itself on the two examples I have worked on were faceted hexagons which roughly makes them of type I1. The pommels faceting left sharp edges at the "points" of the hexagons which would be very uncomfortable during any sort of use without gauntlets. Similarly the cross has decorative cutouts that are left raw giving the cross many sharp edges. Both items would benefit immensely from some file or grinding work on these sharp edges. The grip is extremely long (nearly a third of the length of the entire sword) and in this example is wrapped in a greenish cord that has been glued or epoxied in place. Again, although not horribly historically accurate it seems to be effective in helping maintain grip and keeping the user from holding onto the tang.
Appearance: These swords approximate medieval swords in vague form and shape in that they have a blade, a cross and a pommel. The blades themselves are well ground although one of the two that I worked on had a slight bend to the left. I do not know if that was a result of manufacture or usage. The blades are fantasy pieces, not approximating any Oakeshott type. Both the cross and pommel are heavy and chunky, although both have been milled with some attempts at decorative surfacing. The grip is cord wrapped. Of the pieces I've seen one was well done and one had visible glue on the outside of the wrapping.
Conclusion: I think that these swords are exactly what the owners of Badger Blades intend them to be. They make no pretentions of being historically accurate or very interested in aesthetics, nor or they designed to be fast or agile swords. The construction methods are as ahistorical as the aesthetics. If a person is looking for something a little more finished and historically accurate in this price range something by MRL might be more to order. However, if a person wants a large heavy feeling chunk of steel to attack that old refrigerator or engine block in the backyard without fear of damaging their expensive and pretty sword this might be just the item that you are looking for.